Rajasthani Lehenga

The term ‘Rajasthani Ghagra’ evokes images of bright swirling colours in the desert radiant with mirrors, with the background of decorated camels, the valour and hospitality of Rajputs, and the art and crafts of Rajasthan.

The Ghagra is a kind of pleated skirt that is long and embroidered and worn as the lower portion of a Ghagra kanchli or Choli (blouse). It is tied around the waist and held by a drawstring. The Ghagra evolved from Bhainivasani, which has its roots in the Antariya.

This traditional clothing of Ghagra and Choli is worn by women in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar, Harayana, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand. The fabrics used for a Ghagra are cotton, silk, khadi, georgette, crepe, net, satin, brocade and chiffon. Silk and cotton are the favoured materials.

is a form of skirt which is long, embroidered and pleated. It is worn as the bottom portion of a Gagra choli. It is secured at the waist and leaves the lower back and midriff bare.The ancient version of skirt or  evolved from  which in turn evolved from the  when stitched on one side became tabular and was worn gathered together at the waist, and held by a girdle. This was one of the earliest forms of a clumsily stitched skirt. It was worn using drawstring or nada. The ghagri was a narrow skirt six feet long the same length as original antariya. This style can still be seen worn by Jain nuns

The history of Ghagra goes back to the 5th or 6th century A.D. Garments similar to the Ghagra can be seen in Buddhist sculptures and paintings dating from the Kushana or early Gupta period – the archetype of the modern Ghagra. fashion trends

The origin of the Ghagra can be traced back to the courts in the Mughal era, showcasing Indian culture and arts. The length of the Ghagra which earlier skimmed the floor has been shortened to grace the ankles. A favourite for all kinds of formal and religious occasions, the Ghagra’s Choli or blouse has detailed patch work. This in turn is designed with beads, fancy stitches, shells, and sequins, the motifs commonly used are of birds, animals and flowers. Handmade Ghagras are classic.

Until the early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in Hindi belt. This was largely due to jeweled toes showed marital status of women as both married and unmarried women observed Ghoonghat. Gagras were made out of two to three layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large flared look and remained largely undecorated but were decorated with gota strips along the border on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes were Indigo, Lac and Haldi. This style can still be seen in rural areas of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh particularly during folk festivals. The Ghagra is known and worn for its rich craftsmanship and exquisite embroidery, patterns and vibrant colours. The art used in making a Ghagra are work like: Gota, Phulkari, Shisha (mirror work), Zari, Zardozi, Nakashi, Kundan and much more. Worn during the festival of Navratri, the Shisha or mirror work is combined with patchwork and sometimes stitched on a yoke. For weddings and formal occasions the Ghagra is embellished with pearls, silk, sequins and zari.

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