The term ‘Rajasthani Ghagra’ evokes
images of bright swirling colours in the desert radiant with mirrors,
with the background of decorated camels, the valour and hospitality of
Rajputs, and the art and crafts of Rajasthan.
The Ghagra is a kind of pleated skirt that is long and embroidered and worn
as the lower portion of a Ghagra kanchli or Choli (blouse). It is tied
around the waist and held by a drawstring. The Ghagra evolved from
Bhainivasani, which has its roots in the Antariya.
This traditional clothing of Ghagra and
Choli is worn by women in Rajasthan, Gujarat, Madhya Pradesh, Bihar,
Harayana, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and Uttarakhand. The fabrics
used for a Ghagra are cotton, silk, khadi, georgette, crepe, net, satin,
brocade and chiffon. Silk and cotton are the favoured materials.
is a form of skirt which is long, embroidered and pleated. It is worn
as the bottom portion of a Gagra choli. It is secured at the waist and
leaves the lower back and midriff bare.The ancient version of skirt or evolved from which in turn evolved from the
when stitched on one side became tabular and was worn gathered together
at the waist, and held by a girdle. This was one of the earliest forms
of a clumsily stitched skirt. It was worn using drawstring or nada. The
ghagri was a narrow skirt six feet long the same length as original
antariya. This style can still be seen worn by Jain nuns
The history of Ghagra goes back to the
5th or 6th century A.D. Garments similar to the Ghagra can be seen in
Buddhist sculptures and paintings dating from the Kushana or early Gupta
period – the archetype of the modern Ghagra. fashion trends
The origin of the Ghagra can be traced
back to the courts in the Mughal era, showcasing Indian culture and
arts. The length of the Ghagra which earlier skimmed the floor has been
shortened to grace the ankles. A favourite for all kinds of formal and
religious occasions, the Ghagra’s Choli or blouse has detailed patch
work. This in turn is designed with beads, fancy stitches, shells, and
sequins, the motifs commonly used are of birds, animals and flowers.
Handmade Ghagras are classic.
Until the early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore
gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in Hindi belt. This was
largely due to jeweled toes showed marital status of women as both
married and unmarried women observed Ghoonghat. Gagras were made out of
two to three layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large flared
look and remained largely undecorated but were decorated with gota
strips along the border on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes
were Indigo, Lac and Haldi. This style can still be seen in rural areas
of Haryana, Uttar Pradesh & Madhya Pradesh particularly during folk
festivals. The Ghagra is known and worn for its rich craftsmanship and exquisite
embroidery, patterns and vibrant colours. The art used in making a
Ghagra are work like: Gota, Phulkari, Shisha (mirror work), Zari,
Zardozi, Nakashi, Kundan and much more. Worn during the festival of
Navratri, the Shisha or mirror work is combined with patchwork and
sometimes stitched on a yoke. For weddings and formal occasions the
Ghagra is embellished with pearls, silk, sequins and zari.
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